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Local food of Yamaguchi

Eating in Yamaguchi

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Yamaguchi is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

Fugu

We recommend ordering this one first.

Blowfish, prepared only by licensed cooks. Shimonoseki handles most of Japan’s, and it is at its best in winter.

Winter¥3,000–20,000
kawara soba, tea noodles grilled on a roof tile

Kawara soba

Green tea soba served on a hot roof tile with egg and beef on top, near Kawatana. Odd, and good.

¥1,000–1,800

Uni

Sea urchin from the Japan Sea coast, and Shimonoseki was where the processed version was invented.

Raw¥2,000–6,000
Hagi summer orange sweets

Natsumikan

Large sour citrus grown in the old castle town of Hagi, made into peel sweets and marmalade.

Vegetarian¥400–1,000

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Fried chicken and a bath, in one price フレスパランド カッタの湯(宇部市)

A large public bath house with a dining room inside. One ticket covers the bath and the meal.

Order this
The fried chicken set — 唐揚げ定食
Price
¥1,200 for the bath-and-meal set (¥1,600–1,800 with the rest room)
Dining room
11:00 until 01:00. Set meals stop at midnight
Baths
10:00–01:50 on weekdays, 09:00 at weekends (last entry 01:30)
Closed
Open every day except maintenance days
Paying
Cash only
Wifi
Free, throughout
Phone
0836-37-2626
Where
Kainan-cho 1675, Ube
MAP

Soba on a hot roof tile, at Kawatana 瓦そば たかせ 川棚本館

Green tea soba served on a heated roof tile, with beef, egg and seaweed on top. The tile keeps cooking it while you eat.

Order this
Kawara soba — 瓦そば — 1,320 yen
Taste
Green tea noodles, crisp where they touch the tile
Closed
Weekdays
Open
Saturday, Sunday and public holidays only — 11:00 to 15:00, last order 14:30
Phone
083-772-2680
Where
5437 Kawatana, Toyoura-cho, Shimonoseki
Contains beef
Yes
MAP

Sushi sold off market stalls at the weekend 唐戸市場 活きいき馬関街

On Friday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays the fish market opens its floor to the public and the wholesalers sell sushi by the piece. You eat it standing, or outside on the quay.

Order this
Fugu sashimi and sushi by the piece — ふぐ
Taste
Whatever came in that morning. Fugu is firm and almost flavourless, eaten with citrus soy
Open
Friday to Sunday and public holidays, until 15:00. Not held over New Year
Phone
083-231-0001
Where
5-50 Karato-cho, Shimonoseki City — by the water, opposite Kyushu
Fish
Raw fish and shellfish. Stalls sell out early
MAP

Uiro made with bracken starch 豆子郎 総本店 茶藏唵

Uiro elsewhere in Japan is made with rice flour. Yamaguchi uses bracken starch, so it comes out clearer and springier. There is a tea room in the garden behind the shop.

Order this
Toushirou — 豆子郎 (uiro with whole sweet beans in it)
Taste
Cool, slippery, only lightly sweet. Served with green tea
Open
7:00–19:00. The tea room opens later and closes at 17:00
Phone
083-925-2882
Where
1-1-3 Ouchi Mihori, Yamaguchi City
Contains
Bracken starch, sugar, beans. No dairy, no egg, no wheat
MAP

Pressed sushi built in layers 平清

Iwakuni sushi is packed into a wooden box in layers — vinegared rice, lotus root, shredded egg, fish — then pressed down hard and cut into squares. The shop is at the foot of the arched bridge.

Order this
Iwakuni-zushi — 岩国寿司
Taste
Cold, vinegared, crunchy from the lotus root. Served in slabs, not pieces
Open
Lunch. Evenings are for booked groups only
Closed
Tuesdays
Phone
0827-41-0236
Where
1-2-3 Iwakuni, Iwakuni City — 1 min from Kintaikyo bridge
Fish
Contains fish and egg. Rice is seasoned with vinegar
MAP

A whole summer orange, candied and filled 光國本店

When the domain was dissolved the samurai of Hagi planted natsu-mikan trees in their gardens. The peel is candied whole and the hollow filled with white bean jelly.

Order this
Natsumikan maruzuke — 夏蜜柑丸漬 (one whole fruit, boxed)
Taste
Bitter peel, sweet jelly. Cut it into wedges like a cake
Open
Mon–Sat 9:00–17:00 / Sundays 10:00–17:00
Closed
Tuesdays (open through Golden Week and mid-August)
Phone
0838-22-0239
Where
Kumaya-cho 42, Hagi City — 15 min walk from Higashi-Hagi station
MAP

Soy sauce brewed twice, in a white-walled town 佐川醤油店

Yanai kept a street of white-walled merchant houses. This maker brews its soy sauce a second time over the first and leaves it two years; part of the store is open to look round.

Order this
Kanro shoyu — 甘露醤油 (twice-brewed soy sauce)
Taste
Thick, with a sweet edge. Good on sashimi or cold tofu
Open
8:00–17:00 (9:30–16:30 on Sundays and public holidays)
Closed
No fixed closing day
Entry
The exhibition room in the store is free
Phone
0820-22-1830
Where
Yanai 3708-1, Yanai City
MAP

Yakitori in the hot spring village 焼鳥 さくら食堂

Nagato eats its yakitori by the plateful. This one sits in the Yumoto hot spring village, and opens at lunchtime as well as at night.

Order this
Nagato yakitori — 長門やきとり
Also
Sakura teishoku — さくら定食
Open
11:00 to 14:30 (last order 14:00)
Dinner
17:00 to 22:00 (last order 21:30)
Closed
Thursdays
Booking
Taken
Phone
0837-25-3660
Where
Fukawa-Yumoto 1272-6, Nagato — 5 min walk from the Nagato Yumoto Onsen bus stop
Contains chicken
Yes
MAP

Noodles with burdock worked in 観光会館 安富屋

At the mouth of the Akiyoshi cave, this place kneads burdock grown on the plateau above into its noodles.

Order this
Gobo-men — ごぼう麺 (burdock kneaded into the noodles)
Also
Kappa soba — 河童そば, named after a local tale
Open
8:30 to 17:00. Food is served 11:00 to 15:00
Booking
Ring an hour before you want to eat
Closed
Open every day
Phone
0837-62-0234
Where
Akiyoshi 3442, Shuho-cho, Mine — at the mouth of the cave
Contains
Wheat
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Yamaguchi

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by Kyu3a (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by kagawa_ymg (CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by by Monado (CC BY-SA 2.5), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo credits and licences
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