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Travelling with children

Plan two rests and one sit-down meal. Changing tables in every station and food a child will eat on every corner. Stairs and quiet carriages are the hard part. Here is how to plan around both.

The short versionJapan is easy with children, in specific ways

Two things make travelling here with children much easier than people expect: every station, department store and roadside stop has a proper changing table, and convenience stores are everywhere and sell food a child will actually eat. You are never far from a clean toilet or a plain rice ball.

Two things make it harder: stairs — older stations have a lot of them, and a buggy plus a suitcase is one item too many — and quiet. Trains here are quiet, and a toddler making noise is normal here. Sit at the end of the carriage, near the door, and it matters less.

Three decisions that fix most of it

1. Send the suitcase ahead. Any convenience store will deliver it to your next hotel, usually next day. Then you have one hand for a child and one for a buggy.

2. Two places a day, not five. The temple you did not see will still be there. The afternoon meltdown will not wait.

3. Pick a hotel by its station, not its view. A station with a lift, on a line that goes where you are going, is worth more than anything in the room.

PracticalNappies, milk, food and toilets

Changing and feeding

Changing tables
In every station, department store, motorway stop and most parks. Look for a baby symbol
Feeding rooms
Called junyushitsu. Common in larger stations and shops, with a chair, a sink and hot water
Hot water
Ask at any cafe or convenience store: “Hot water, please”. Nobody minds
Nappies
Drugstores and convenience stores. Sizes are by the child’s weight in kilograms, not by age
Formula
Sold in drugstores. Bring your own brand if your child is fussy

Food a child will eat

Safe bets
Plain rice, rice balls, udon, grilled chicken, tamagoyaki (sweet omelette), corn, bananas, milk
Family restaurants
Chains with picture menus, high chairs and a children’s set. The easiest dinner you will have
Small counters
Delicious, and tight for a buggy — sit in turns, or take it away
Allergies
Show a card — see printable cards

Getting about

Buggies
Fine on trains. Fold it in rush hour, 07:30–09:00, when there is no room
Lifts
Most stations have one; a few old ones do not.
Taxis
Clean and safe, and rear seat belts are the norm; child seats are not. Ask the hotel to book one with a seat if you need it
Fares
Small children usually travel free, and primary-age children at half fare.
Hire a buggy
Some airports and department stores lend them free

Where a day actually worksPlaces children do well

Two things to think twice about

Volcano crater rims have steps, uneven ground and volcanic gas, and they close at short notice. The grassland below gives you the same mountain without any of that.

Castles have steep wooden stairs and you carry the buggy. Best with children who walk.

If you lose sight of each otherDo this before you go in

Before

Photograph
Take a photograph of your child that morning, showing what they are wearing. It is the fastest thing to show staff, and it needs no words
Meeting point
Agree one obvious landmark, and point at it together when you arrive
Teach them
To stay where they are and find a member of staff, rather than walk about looking for you
In their pocket
The hotel’s card, with its name in Japanese

If it happens

Tell
The nearest member of staff, or a police box (koban). Immediately — tell a member of staff at once
Say
Kodomo ga imasen — my child is not here. Then show the photograph
Stations
Go to the station office. Staff are trained for this and will radio
At night
#8000 if a child is unwell and you are not sure what to do
Serious
119 — and the ambulance is free

Where to go next

Photo: by Raita Futo from Tokyo, Japan (CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Jordy Meow (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Balon Greyjoy (CC0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by GIGA146587 (CC BY 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Bedside Moon (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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