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an open-air bath in the snow

Hot springs

Wash first, sit down, and keep the towel out of the water. Very hot water, an outdoor bath in the snow, and ten minutes of doing absolutely nothing. Here is exactly how it works.

Before anything elseWhat an onsen actually is

An onsen is a bath filled from a hot spring, and it is where Japan goes to stop. You do not wash in it — you wash before you get in, at a low shower, sitting on a stool. Then you get in and do nothing at all for ten minutes.

Step by step

  • 1 Shoes off at the entrance, into the shoe locker
  • 2 Men and women bathe separately. Ask at the desk which curtain is which if you are not sure — they expect the question
  • 3 In the changing room, everything comes off. Only the small towel goes through with you
  • 4 Wash at the shower first, sitting down. This is the rule that actually matters. Rinse the soap off completely
  • 5 Get in slowly. Keep the towel out of the water. Do not swim, splash, or wash in the bath
  • 6 Ten minutes is plenty. Get out before you feel light-headed
  • 7 Dry yourself with the small towel before going back to the changing room

The two worries, answered

Being naked
Everyone is, nobody looks, and nobody is interested. If it is still not for you, book a private bath — see below. This solves it completely and is not unusual
Private bath
Called kashikiri. Many inns have one, hired by the hour or included with the room. Ask when you book, not on arrival
Tattoos
Some places do not admit them, some do, and some ask you to cover a small one. Ask at the desk before you undress — and ask about a private bath in the same breath. A room with its own bath avoids the question entirely

Ten hot springsWhere to go, and what makes each one different

Every one of these links to the prefecture it is in, so you can build a trip around it rather than treat it as a detour.

PracticalCost, time and what to bring

What it costs

Public bath
¥400–900 for a local one, higher at famous bath houses
Day use at an inn
¥800–2,500, often with a towel included
Staying over
¥8,000–35,000 per person with dinner and breakfast
Private bath
¥2,000–5,000 an hour, or included with some rooms
Towel
Buy or hire one at the desk for a few hundred yen if you have none

Ranges are a guide, not a quotation.

What to take in

Small towel
Goes with you. Used to wash, and to dry off at the end
Large towel
Stays in the changing room
Phone
Leave it in the locker. Photographs in the bath area are not acceptable anywhere, ever
Jewellery
Take it off. Silver goes black in sulphur water
Long hair
Tie it up, out of the water
Glasses
Fine. Contact lenses, better out

Looking after yourself

Drink water
Before and after. The water is hotter than a bath at home and you lose more than you think
Feeling faint
Get out, sit down, cool your wrists. The heat does this to people — it is common and it passes
Alcohol
Not before bathing. Have the drink afterwards, with dinner
Heart, blood pressure
Keep it short and to the cooler bath. Staff will point you to it if you ask
Children
With a parent, and briefly
After eating
Wait half an hour
The signs to look for

A curtain or sign reading 男 is men and 女 is women — the colours are not reliable, the characters are. Rotenburo means the bath is outdoors, which is the one to choose if there is snow. Kashikiri means private. Higaeri means you can use it for the day without staying.

Where to go next

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Photo: Ginzan Onsen by さかおり (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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Photo: by Fumiaki Yoshimatsu from Tokyo, Japan (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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