Ehime runs along the north-west coast of Shikoku, and its centre is Dogo Onsen — said to be the oldest hot spring still in use in Japan, in a three-storey wooden bath house you walk into off the street.
Start with the first of these. Each is worth half a day.
Above the city stands Matsuyama Castle, another of the twelve with an original keep, reached by a chairlift or a climb. Around it the trams still run, and one of them is pulled by a small steam engine.
Getting in: Matsuyama Airport · Matsuyama Station — no shinkansen; ferry from Hiroshima, or limited express
Pick the season first and the days will arrange themselves.
Cherry blossom at the castle in early April, and the best cycling weather of the year.
Wet in June. Hot for cycling in August — start at first light or ride in the evening.
The other good cycling season: clear, dry and cool over the water.
Mild for Japan. The bath house is at its best, and the bridges are empty.
