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a shojin vegetarian meal on a tray

Vegetarian in Japan

Start with temple cooking and show the card elsewhere. One word settles it: dashi.

The honest answerHarder than it looks, and entirely possible

Japan has a long vegetarian tradition in its temples, and a modern food culture in which fish stock is almost everywhere. Those two facts pull in opposite directions, and it is worth knowing which one you are dealing with.

The thing to learn is one word: dashi. It is the stock in miso soup, in noodle broth, in simmered vegetables and in many sauces, and it is usually made from dried bonito — fish. A dish of vegetables can be entirely vegetable and still contain it.

That is not a reason to worry. It is a reason to ask specifically rather than saying “vegetarian”, because the word is understood but its implications for stock often are not.

What to say, in order of usefulness

“Oniku to sakana nashi” — no meat and no fish. The essential phrase.

“Katsuo-dashi nashi” — no bonito stock. This is the one that actually gets you a vegetarian meal, and the one nobody teaches you.

Show a card — see printable cards. It is faster and clearer than any spoken phrase.

In practiceWhere to eat well

The best option

Temple food
Shojin ryori — Buddhist temple cooking, entirely vegetarian by rule, and often excellent. Kyoto and Koyasan are the places
Where
Koyasan temple lodgings serve it as dinner and breakfast. Staying in a temple
Cost
A set meal from a few thousand yen; included with a temple stay

Everyday

Convenience stores
Rice balls with plum or kelp, salad, boiled eggs, fruit, bread. Ingredients are printed on the label
Soba shops
Zaru soba — cold noodles with a dipping sauce. Ask about the sauce
Tempura
Vegetable tempura is standard. Ask about the dipping sauce
Curry
Vegetable curry exists at chains and is reliable
Tofu
Yudofu and agedashi tofu — but ask about the stock

Growing

Cities
Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka have proper vegetarian and vegan restaurants now, and more each year
Ask before you go
Telephone ahead — stock changes with the season
Ask your hotel
They will telephone ahead and explain the stock question for you. Ask someone to call for you

Where to go next

Photo: by Chris 73 (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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