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a cedar ball at a sake brewery

Sake

Ask for the local one and start with a small glass.

What to know firstIt is a rice wine, and it is not always hot

Good sake is usually served cold or at room temperature. Heating is a style, not a mark of quality, and it suits some sake in winter — but if you were given hot sake once and disliked it, that was a choice somebody made, not the drink itself.

It is brewed from rice, water and mould, at around 15% alcohol, and it is the water that makes the regional difference. The snow country brews the best of it: Niigata has around ninety breweries, more than any prefecture, because the snowmelt is soft and the winters are long.

Breweries welcome visitors, most tastings cost a few hundred yen, and the good ones will explain the differences in English better than any label can.

Four words that get you the right glass

Junmai — rice only, fuller, more savoury. Ginjo — more polished rice, lighter and more fragrant. Nigori — cloudy and sweeter. Nama — unpasteurised, fresh, seasonal.

Or ignore all four and say “What is local?”, which is the better question anywhere in Japan.

One note

It is stronger than it tastes when cold. Drink water alongside it, which is what the glass of water beside your cup is for.

Where to goSix places to drink it where it is made

Each links to its prefecture.

Where to go next

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