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Local food of Oita

Eating in Oita

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Oita is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

toriten, chicken tempura

Toriten

We recommend ordering this one first.

Chicken in a light tempura batter, eaten with ponzu and mustard. Oita’s everyday dish.

No pork¥800–1,400
dango-jiru, flat dumpling soup

Dango-jiru

Flat hand-pulled wheat dumplings in miso soup with root vegetables. Farmers’ food, warm and cheap.

Vegetarian option¥600–1,000
Seki mackerel sashimi

Seki mackerel and horse mackerel

Line-caught in the fast strait and served raw the same day. Firm in a way farmed fish is not.

Raw¥2,000–5,000
jigoku-mushi, food steamed over a hot spring in Beppu

Jigoku-mushi

Vegetables, eggs and seafood steamed over a hot spring vent, which you can do yourself in Beppu.

Vegetarian option¥800–2,500

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Ramen that does not shut in the afternoon ラーメン天国 本店

A ramen shop seven minutes from Yufuin station, open from eleven in the morning until nine at night. No afternoon break — useful in a town where the day is arranged around bath times.

What they do
Ramen, plainly done, in a town where most of the eating is arranged around inns
Station
Yufuin — 7 minutes on foot
Open
11:00–21:00, straight through
Closed
Open every day
Where
Yufuin Kawakami 2, Yufu
Phone
0977-85-3801
Contains pork
Yes
MAP

Toriten in Beppu, batter-fried chicken レストラン東洋軒

Toriten is chicken in a light batter, fried and eaten with ponzu and mustard. Oita eats it the way other places eat tempura.

Order this
Toriten set — 本家とり天定食 — 1,375 yen
Also
The dish on its own is 1,100 yen
Taste
Thin batter, chicken thigh, dipped in ponzu with mustard
Open
11:00–15:30 (last order 15:00) and 17:00–22:00 (last order 21:00)
Closed
The second Tuesday of the month
Phone
0977-23-3333
Where
7-8-22 Ishigaki-higashi, Beppu
Contains chicken
Yes. No pork
MAP

Custard steamed over a hot spring 岡本屋売店

Up on the hillside at Myoban, where white steam comes straight out of the ground. The custard is cooked in that steam, which turns the top dark and slightly bitter.

Order this
Jigoku-mushi purin — 地獄蒸しプリン
Taste
Firm custard, burnt-sugar top, faint sulphur in the air around you
Open
8:30–18:30 (last order 17:30, seating until 18:00)
Closed
Open every day
Phone
0977-66-6115
Where
Myoban 3-kumi, Beppu City — bus from Beppu station
Contains
Egg and milk
MAP

The town that fries the most chicken 中津からあげ もり山 万田本店

Nakatsu has more fried chicken shops per person than anywhere in Japan. The meat is soaked in a salt marinade rather than soy, so it comes out pale and very juicy.

Order this
Karaage — からあげ (sold by weight, to take away or eat in)
Taste
Salt, garlic and ginger. Thin crisp coating, nothing sweet
Open
11:00–20:00
Phone
0979-24-2222
Where
566-5 Manda, Nakatsu City
Contains
Chicken, wheat, garlic
MAP

Flat wheat dumplings in miso soup 郷土料理 こつこつ庵

Dango-jiru is wheat dough pulled into wide flat strips and simmered with root vegetables in miso. It was farmers' food. The room is packed with old shop signs and lanterns.

Order this
Dango-jiru — だんご汁. Yaseuma (the sweet version) is on the menu too
Taste
Thick, soft, salty miso. Closer to a stew than a soup
Open
11:30–14:30 and 17:00–22:30
Closed
Sundays
Phone
097-537-8888
Where
3-8-19 Funai-machi, Oita City
Contains
Wheat, miso (soy). The stock is made with fish
MAP

Soy sauce and miso brewed with river water 日田醤油 丸の内本店

Hita sits in a basin where several rivers meet, and that water goes into the brewing. Kyushu soy sauce is sweeter than the kind sold elsewhere in Japan.

Order this
Shoyu — 醤油 (bottled, and miso by weight)
Taste
Sweeter and thicker than eastern soy sauce. Good on sashimi
Open
9:30–16:30
Closed
Sundays, and 1 January
Phone
0973-22-2456
Where
Marunouchi-machi 2-1, Hita City
MAP

Bungo beef over rice, eaten three ways 由布まぶし 心 金鱗湖本店

Kinrin Lake steams at dawn and the town walks the path around it. This place stands a few steps off that path and grills Bungo beef over charcoal to lay over rice.

Order this
Bungo-gyu mabushi — 豊後牛まぶし, 3,200 yen
Taste
Charcoal-grilled beef on rice, worked through three ways in one bowl
Open
10:30–18:30, last order 17:30
Closed
No fixed day — ring ahead to check
Phone
0977-85-7880
Where
Kawakami 1492-1, Yufuin — a few steps from Kinrin Lake
MAP

Usuki tofu, built into a set meal 臼杵豆腐とふるさと懐石 やを傳

Usuki is a town of soy sauce and tofu. This place builds its set meals around the local tofu and yuba, the skin lifted off soy milk.

Order this
Usuki tofu — 臼杵豆腐, and yuba — 湯葉
Also
Usuki fugu — 臼杵ふぐ, and wagyu steak
Open
11:30 to 15:00
Dinner
17:30 to 21:30 — 21:00 on Sunday and holidays
Closed
Tuesdays — open if it falls on a holiday
Phone
0972-62-3424
Where
Emuta 243-1, Usuki City
Contains
Soy beans. The set meals also carry fish
MAP

Nakatsu karaage — three minutes from the station, takeaway only 中津 彩鶏々 本店

Nakatsu is a town of fried-chicken shops. This one marinates the chicken for a full day in a tare made with local soy sauce. It is a takeaway shop, so there is nowhere to sit.

Order this
Nakatsu karaage — 中津からあげ
Takeaway only
No seating — you carry it out
How it is made
Marinated a full day in a tare made with soy sauce from the area
Open
11:00-19:30
Closed
Mondays
Phone
0979-24-0073
Where
Nakadono 485-1, Nakatsu — 3 minutes on foot from Nakatsu station
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Oita

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by Asturio Cantabrio (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by kimishowota (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Flickr
Photo: by OitaKiseichu (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by norio_nomura (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Flickr
Photo: by 松岡明芳 (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo credits and licences
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