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Local food of Niigata

Eating in Niigata

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Niigata is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

a bowl of Niigata Koshihikari rice

Koshihikari rice

We recommend ordering this one first.

The rice other rice is compared with. Eaten plain, and the difference is obvious even to a visitor.

Vegetarian¥600–1,500
a sake brewery and serving cups

Sake

Around ninety breweries, more than any other prefecture. Snowmelt water, and long cold winters.

No pork¥500–3,000
hegi soba served on a wooden tray

Hegi soba

Soba bound with seaweed, served in neat coils on a wooden tray. Firm, and slightly of the sea.

Vegetarian option¥900–1,600
Niigata tare-katsu don, sauce-dipped pork cutlet on rice

Tarekatsu don

Thin pork cutlets dipped in soy sauce and laid on rice. Lighter than the usual egg-bound version.

Contains pork¥900–1,400

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Soba bound with seaweed, served in a wooden box 須坂屋そば 新潟駅前店

Buckwheat noodles with seaweed worked into the dough, so they are springy instead of crumbly. They arrive in a wooden box, laid out in small coils that you lift off one at a time.

Order this
Hegi soba for one and a half — へぎそば — ¥1,100
For a group
Three to four portions in one box — ¥3,500
Taste
Cool, firm and slightly slippery. You dip each coil in the sauce rather than pouring it over
Price
¥1,100–3,500
Station
Niigata — 4 minutes on foot
Open
11:00 until midnight (last order 23:30)
Closed
January 1 and 2
Phone
025-241-7705
Where
Benten 1-4-29, Chuo ward, Niigata City — the IMA building, floors 1 to 3
Vegetarian
The noodles are, but the dipping sauce is made with fish — ask
MAP

Hegisoba in Ojiya, longer hours at weekends そば処 わたや 本店

Hegisoba is buckwheat bound with seaweed and laid on a wooden board in small coils. Firmer and smoother than ordinary soba.

Order this
Hegisoba — へぎそば
Taste
Firm and slippery. Eaten cold, dipped
Open
Weekdays 11:00–15:00 (last order 14:30). Weekends and holidays 10:45–20:00 (last order 19:30)
Closed
Mondays
Phone
0258-82-2258
Where
2-3-34 Honcho, Ojiya
Broth
The dipping sauce is made with fish — ask
MAP

Cutlet dipped in sauce, no egg on top とんかつ太郎

Niigata does not bind its katsudon with egg. Thin pork cutlets are dipped in a sweet soy sauce and laid straight on the rice. This shop started it.

Order this
Tare-katsudon — タレカツ丼
Taste
Sweet-salty soy on crisp batter, no sauce pooled in the bowl
Open
From 11:30 to 14:30. Shuts when they run out
Closed
Wednesdays and Thursdays
Phone
025-222-0097
Where
973 Furumachi-dori 6-bancho, Chuo ward, Niigata City
Meat
Pork. Batter contains wheat and egg
MAP

Where kaki-no-tane was invented 浪花屋製菓 直売所

In 1923 a maker here flattened a rice-cracker mould by accident, and the crescent shape that came out was named after a persimmon seed. The shop stands on that spot.

Order this
Kaki-no-tane — 柿の種 (about thirty kinds, some sold only here)
Taste
Hot, salty, soy-glazed rice crackers. Usually mixed with peanuts
Open
10:00–16:00
Phone
0258-86-7033
Where
2680 Settaya-machi, Nagaoka City — 12 min from Nagaoka station
Nuts
The standard mix contains peanuts
MAP

Dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves 田中屋本店 みなと工房

Sasa dango is mugwort-flavoured rice dough around sweet bean paste, tied in bamboo leaves and steamed. Here you watch them being wrapped by hand through the glass.

Order this
Sasa dango — 笹だんご
Taste
Grassy from the mugwort, sweet inside. The leaf scents the whole thing
Open
9:00–18:00 (the workshop can be watched 9:00–16:00)
Closed
1 January
Phone
025-225-8822
Where
1-2-3 Yanagishima-cho, Chuo ward, Niigata City
Contains
Rice, mugwort, red beans. Watching is free; making your own must be booked ahead
MAP

Sake tasting inside the station ぽんしゅ館 越後湯沢驛店

Niigata brews with snowmelt and grows the rice for it. Inside the shinkansen station a wall of machines pours a hundred sake in small cups, and you put coins in and try them.

Order this
Kikizake — 唎酒 (five small cups for a set price)
Taste
Mostly clean and dry. Salt and miso are set out to eat between cups
Open
Each counter inside keeps its own hours. Most open from 9:30
Phone
025-784-3758
Where
2427-3 Yuzawa, Yuzawa town — inside Echigo-Yuzawa station
Alcohol
Do not drink if you are driving. Rice balls are sold in the same hall
MAP

Salmon cured under the beams of a town house きっかわ

Murakami hangs salmon from the beams of its old town houses and leaves them through the winter. The shop stands under those beams, with the fish still overhead.

Order this
Shiobiki-zake — 塩引き鮭 (salt-cured salmon)
Taste
Salty and dense. Grill a thin slice and eat it with rice
Open
9:00–17:30
Closed
1 January
Visit
The shop is free to walk into — call ahead if you want the salmon room explained
Phone
0254-53-2213
Where
Omachi 1-20, Murakami City
Fish
Cured fish, not raw.
MAP

The yellow curry at the bus centre 万代そば

A soba counter inside the bus centre, where the thing people order is not soba but a yellow curry.

Order this
Curry rice — カレーライス. Mini, regular or large
Taste
A yellow curry, spiced, on a broth made from pork bones
Open
8:00 to 19:00
Closed
Open every day
Phone
025-246-6432
Where
Bandai 1-6-1, Chuo ward, Niigata — inside Bandai City bus centre, 10 min walk from Niigata station
Contains pork
Yes — the broth is made from pork bones
MAP

Ramen under a layer of pork fat 杭州飯店

Tsubame floats a thick layer of pork back fat on its soy broth, with very thick noodles underneath.

Order this
Chuka soba — 中華そば, the back-fat one
Taste
Soy broth under a layer of pork back fat, with very thick noodles
Open
11:00 to 14:30, and 17:00 to 20:00
Weekends
Saturday, Sunday and holidays: 11:00 to 18:30
Closed
Mondays — and twice a month the Tuesday as well
Phone
0256-64-3770
Where
Tsubame 49-4, Tsubame City
Contains pork
Yes
MAP

Igoneri — seaweed set firm, eaten cold いごねりの早助屋

Seaweed boiled down, worked smooth and set firm into sheets. On Sado they roll it up and cut it thin. Eaten cold with ginger and soy sauce.

Buy this
Igoneri — いごねり — rolled, or in flat blocks
What it is
Igo-gusa seaweed, boiled down and set firm. Nothing else in it.
How to eat it
Cold, with spring onion and ginger, plus soy sauce, ponzu or vinegared miso
Open
7:00-19:00
Closed
No closing day
Phone
0259-52-6577
Where
Sawane-Sumiyacho 37, Sado
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Niigata

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by Yuki Shimazu (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by RuinDig/Yuki Uchida (CC BY 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Culture Japon (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by くろふね (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Tak H. (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Flickr
Photo credits and licences
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