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Local food of Nagasaki

Eating in Nagasaki

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Nagasaki is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

Nagasaki champon noodles

Champon

We recommend ordering this one first.

Noodles in a thick pork-and-seafood broth with vegetables, invented in Nagasaki’s Chinatown.

Contains pork¥800–1,300
sara udon, crisp noodles with thick sauce

Sara udon

The same ingredients as champon over crisp fried noodles, with a thickened sauce.

Contains pork¥800–1,300
Nagasaki castella sponge cake

Castella

Sponge cake brought by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century. Dense, damp, and still made here.

Vegetarian¥600–2,000
shippoku cuisine on a round table

Shippoku

A shared course that mixes Japanese, Chinese and European cooking — the whole history of the port on one table.

¥5,000–15,000

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Chanpon in a house on a back street 宝楽

A chanpon shop in a quiet residential street, in what was somebody’s house. People in Shimabara send visitors here rather than to the shops on the main road.

Order this
Chanpon — ちゃんぽん
Taste
Pork and chicken stock. The vegetables and seafood are fried before the soup goes in
The room
A converted house in a residential street, not a restaurant row
Station
Shimabara
Where
Kakinoki-machi 3961-1, Shimabara
Closed
First and third Thursday
Phone
0957-64-2021
Contains shellfish
Yes
MAP

Champon by the harbour in Nagasaki 中華料理 四海樓

Champon is noodles in a thick pork and seafood broth. This one looks over Nagasaki harbour from the upper floor, near the Oura church slope.

Order this
Champon — ちゃんぽん
Also
Sara udon — 皿うどん — the same on crisp fried noodles
Open
Lunch 11:30–15:00. Evening from 17:00
Closed
No fixed day, and shut 30 December to 2 January
Phone
095-822-1296
Where
4-5 Matsugae-machi, Nagasaki
Contains pork
Yes
MAP

Castella — sponge cake the Portuguese left behind カステラ本家 福砂屋 本店

Portuguese traders brought the recipe to Nagasaki in the 1500s. This shop has been baking it since 1624, one pan at a time, with sugar crystals left at the bottom.

Order this
Castella — カステラ (sold by the block, boxed)
Taste
Moist, honey-sweet, sugar grains under the base
Open
9:30–17:00
Phone
095-821-2938
Where
3-1 Funadaiku-machi, Nagasaki City — near Shianbashi tram stop
Contains
Egg, wheat, sugar, starch syrup. No dairy, no meat
MAP

Three dishes on one plate ツル茶ん

Turkish rice is pilaf, spaghetti and a pork cutlet side by side under curry sauce. Nobody agrees why it is called that. This tearoom has been open since 1925.

Order this
Toruko rice — トルコライス. The thick milkshake is the other speciality
Taste
Everything at once — rice, pasta, fried pork, curry. One plate is a full meal
Open
9:00–21:00
Closed
1 January
Phone
095-824-2679
Where
2-47 Aburaya-machi, Nagasaki City — 1 min from Shianbashi tram stop
Contains
Pork, wheat, egg, dairy
MAP

Braised pork in a steamed bun 岩崎本舗 西浜町店

Pork belly simmered for hours in soy and sugar until it falls apart, then folded into a soft steamed bun. Sold to take away, and there are tables inside with free tea.

Order this
Kakuni manju — 角煮まんじゅう
Taste
Very sweet, very fatty, the bun soaks up the sauce
Open
9:30–21:00
Closed
Open all year
Phone
095-818-7075
Where
3-17 Doza-machi, Nagasaki City — 2 min from Shinchi Chinatown tram stop
Contains
Pork, wheat, soy
MAP

Castella fried in syrup, from the Portuguese trade 平戸蔦屋 本店

Casdoce is castella dipped in egg yolk, fried in syrup and rolled in sugar. Hirado traded with Portuguese ships, and the sweet is still made here.

Order this
Casdoce — カスドース (boxed, small pieces)
Taste
Very sweet, crisp at the edges. One piece with tea is enough
Open
9:00–19:00
Phone
0950-23-8000
Where
Kihikida-machi 431, Hirado City
MAP

Dumplings cooled in the spring itself 銀水

Shimabara runs on spring water. It surfaces in the streets, carp swim in the channels, and this house sits on one of the springs and chills its dumplings in it.

Order this
Kanzarashi — かんざらし
Taste
Small rice-flour dumplings in a cold, light syrup
Open
The house 9:00–18:00
Kanzarashi
Served 10:00–17:00
Phone
0957-63-4610
Where
Shirachi-momoyama 2-1093, Shimabara City — at the Hama-no-kawa spring
MAP

Prawn paste fried inside bread 出島亭

Hatoshi is prawn paste pressed between slices of bread and deep fried — the name comes from Chinese. This shop in the Chinatown makes its own by hand.

Order this
Ebi hatoshi — えびハトシ
Taste
Prawn paste between slices of bread, deep fried
Open
11:30 to 15:00, and 17:00 to 20:00
Closed
No fixed day — ring ahead
Phone
095-825-4488
Where
Shinchi-machi 9-13, Nagasaki — in the Chinatown
Take it with you
Made to carry — you can eat it as you walk
Contains
Prawn, wheat
MAP

Omura-zushi — a pressed sushi with no raw fish 角ずしやまと

Rice is spread in a shallow wooden box, layered twice with toppings, pressed, and cut into squares. The white fish is boiled and flaked, and a lot of sugar goes in.

Order this
Omura-zushi — 大村寿司
No raw fish
The white fish is boiled and flaked
Also in it
Shredded egg, dried shiitake, burdock root, carrot, bamboo shoot, fish cake
Taste
Sweet — sugar is used generously
Open
Meals 10:00-20:00, last order 19:00. Takeaway from 8:00.
Closed
Tuesdays and Wednesdays — open when those fall on a public holiday
Phone
0957-52-3546
Where
Honmachi 474-5, Omura
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Nagasaki

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by Totti (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by ノボホショコロトソ (CC BY 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by David Pursehouse from Kawasaki, Japan (CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Ocdp (CC0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by 663highland (CC BY 2.5), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo credits and licences
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