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Local food of Yamagata

Eating in Yamagata

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Yamagata is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

Yamagata cherries

Cherries

We recommend ordering this one first.

Most of Japan’s cherries grow here, and they are picked in June. Sold at the roadside for a fortnight.

June onlyVegetarian
Yonezawa beef steak

Yonezawa beef

One of the older named beefs of Japan, from the south of the prefecture. Grilled, or as a rice bowl.

No pork¥3,000–10,000
the imoni festival on the riverbank

Imoni

Taro, beef and konnyaku simmered outdoors in a large pot by a river in autumn. A social event as much as a dish.

Autumn¥500–900

Cold ramen

Ramen served genuinely cold, broth and all — invented here, and rarely found elsewhere.

Contains pork¥800–1,200

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

One pot, and it changes as you cross the prefecture 山形いも煮ヤ

Taro, meat and vegetables simmered in a single pot. The recipe changes as you cross the prefecture — soy sauce and beef in one part, miso and pork in another. This shop serves all of them.

Order this
Imoni, small pot — 芋煮 — ¥1,980 for one
Larger pots
Two to three people ¥4,290 · three to five ¥6,050
Murayama
Soy, sugar and sake with beef. The sweetest of them
Okitama
Soy with beef, and more vegetables
Mogami
Soy with pork and a lot of mushrooms
Shonai
Miso with pork and fried tofu — the coastal version
Nakayama
Made with dried cod instead of meat
Open
16:45–24:00 — evenings only
Closed
Open every day
Where
Kasumicho 1-8-8, Yamagata
Phone
023-624-0880
MAP

Yonezawa beef in Yonezawa, sukiyaki or grilled お食事処 米沢牛登起波

Yonezawa beef eaten as sukiyaki, shabu-shabu or grilled over charcoal. Above the butcher that supplies it, in the middle of Yonezawa.

Order this
Sukiyaki course — すき焼きコース
Also
Shabu-shabu, charcoal-grilled, or steak
Open
11:00–21:00, last order 19:30. Shut only on 1 January.
Phone
0238-23-5400
Where
7-2-3 Chuo, Yonezawa
Contains beef
Yes
MAP

Ramen served cold, with ice in the bowl 栄屋本店

This shop made the first cold ramen in 1952, for customers who wanted noodles in summer. The soy broth is chilled and the fat is cut so it does not set.

Order this
Hiyashi ramen — 冷しらーめん
Taste
Cold soy broth, ice floating in it, firm noodles
Open
From 11:30. Closing time changes with the season
Closed
Wednesdays — the next day instead if it is a public holiday
Phone
023-623-0766
Where
2-3-21 Hon-cho, Yamagata City
Contains
Pork, egg, wheat noodles, soy
MAP

Soba served on a plank あらきそば

Yamagata serves soba on a wooden board for two or more people to share. Here the buckwheat is milled on the premises each morning, in a thatched farmhouse.

Order this
Ita soba — 板そば
Taste
Thick, dark, very coarse noodles with a strong buckwheat smell
Open
11:00–14:30 (last order 14:15)
Closed
Wednesdays
Phone
0237-54-2248
Where
65 Okubo-ko, Murayama City
Contains
Buckwheat. The dipping stock is made with fish
MAP

Chopped summer vegetables over rice 山形まるごと館 紅の蔵

Dashi is cucumber, aubergine and myoga chopped fine and steeped in soy. It is eaten cold over rice through the summer. This is a merchant house from the Meiji years, now shops and kitchens.

Order this
Dashi — だし. Local pickles and fruit are sold here as well
Taste
Cold, crunchy, salty. Sticky from the okra some cooks add
Open
Each shop inside keeps its own hours. Most open around 10:00
Closed
Varies by shop. The whole site shuts 1–3 January
Phone
023-679-5101
Where
2-1-8 Tokamachi, Yamagata City
Contains
Vegetables and soy. No meat, no dairy
MAP

Pork from pigs fed on the rice around them 平田牧場 とんや 酒田店

The pigs are raised on the Shonai plain and fed on rice grown in the same fields. The farm runs this restaurant and cuts the pork for it.

Order this
Tonkatsu — とんかつ (breaded pork cutlet)
Taste
Thick cut, fried crisp. Rice and shredded cabbage come with it
Open
Lunch 11:00–15:00 / dinner 17:00–20:30
Phone
0234-23-8011
Where
Mizuho 2-17-8, Sakata City — ground floor of Garden Palace Mizuho
MAP

Soba in an old house on the hot-spring street 伊豆の華

Ginzan Onsen is a row of wooden inns along a narrow river, lit by gas lamps at dusk. This soba shop works out of an old house looking onto that street.

Order this
Age-nasu oroshi soba — 揚げ茄子おろしそば
Taste
Fried aubergine and grated radish over buckwheat noodles, hot or cold
Open
11:00–18:00
Closed
Wednesdays
Phone
0237-28-2036
Where
Ginzan Shinbata 440, Obanazawa City
MAP

Rice-flour cakes at the hot spring いがもちの里 さんべ

Igamochi are small rice-flour cakes with sweet bean paste inside. The shop sits in the Zao hot spring village, and you can sit down with them.

Order this
Igamochi — いがもち. Three make one serving
Taste
Rice flour with smooth sweet bean paste inside
Open
Cakes from 8:30, until they sell out. The cafe runs 9:30 to 17:00
Closed
No fixed day — ring ahead
Phone
023-694-9538
Where
Zao Onsen 1221-2, Yamagata City
Eat in
A cafe inside, with tea or coffee
Contains
Rice and beans. Eat them the same day
MAP

Mugikiri in Tsuruoka — it looks like soba but it is wheat 寝覚屋半兵エ

Mugikiri is a thin wheat noodle from the Shonai area, cut narrow and served cold. The menu here is only two things: mugikiri and buckwheat soba.

Order this
Mugikiri — 麦切り
What it is
A cold wheat noodle, cut thin. Not buckwheat.
Also on the menu
Buckwheat soba — those two are the whole menu
Open
11:00-15:00, or until the noodles run out
Closed
Wednesdays, or the next day when Wednesday is a public holiday
Phone
0235-33-2257
Where
Biwagawara 74, Umamachi, Tsuruoka
MAP

Torimotsu ramen — chicken offal on a light soy soup 末広

Shinjo City describes this as a light soy-sauce ramen topped with well-simmered chicken offal. The soup is plain; the offal is what makes it local.

Order this
Torimotsu ramen — とりもつラーメン
Offal
Simmered chicken offal sits on the noodles
The soup
A light soy-sauce soup
Open
11:00-14:45
Closed
The 2nd, 4th and 5th Sunday of the month
Phone
0233-23-4558
Where
Suehiro-cho 1-36, Shinjo
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Yamagata

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

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Photo: by Humoyun Mehridinov (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Jpatokal (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by U-D.I.E. (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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