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Local food of Miyagi

Eating in Miyagi

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Miyagi is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

Gyutan

We recommend ordering this one first.

Grilled beef tongue, thick-sliced and salted. Sendai turns it into a proper meal rather than a novelty.

No pork¥1,500–3,500

Zuwaigani and oysters

Matsushima Bay oysters, grilled at stalls along the front in winter.

Raw option¥500–1,500
zunda rice cakes and a zunda shake

Zunda

Sweet mashed green soybean, on rice cakes or in a milkshake. Bright green, and better than it sounds.

Vegetarian¥400–800

Hoya

Sea squirt, eaten raw. Unmistakable, strongly of the sea, and the local test of a visitor.

Raw¥600–1,200

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Grilled beef tongue, inside Sendai station 牛たん炭焼 利久 仙台駅店

Thick-cut beef tongue grilled over charcoal, with barley rice and a tail soup. It is on the third floor of the station itself, on a corridor of tongue restaurants — you can eat before your train without leaving the building.

Order this
Salt-grilled set, three slices — 牛たん定食(塩味) — ¥2,926
Taste
Salted and grilled over charcoal, cut thick enough to chew. Salt or miso — salt is the one to start with
What comes with it
Barley rice, ox-tail soup and pickles. It is a full meal
Cheaper
Beef tongue stew or curry set — ¥2,035
Price
¥2,000–4,400
Where
Sendai station, 3rd floor — the corridor called 牛たん通り
Open
10:00–21:30 (last order 21:00)
Closed
Open every day
Phone
022-214-3255
Contains beef
Yes
MAP

Grilled beef tongue in Ichibancho, Sendai 味太助 本店

Beef tongue salted, grilled over charcoal and served with barley rice and oxtail soup. In the covered shopping streets in the middle of Sendai.

Order this
Gyutan teishoku — 牛タン定食 — tongue, barley rice, tail soup
Taste
Salt and charcoal. Thick slices, chewy rather than soft
Open
11:30–21:00, last order 20:30. Shut Tuesdays.
Phone
022-225-4641
Where
4-4-13 Ichibancho, Aoba ward, Sendai
Contains beef
Yes
MAP

Fish cake on a stick, fried to order 阿部蒲鉾店 本店

A shop in the covered shopping street that makes sasa-kamaboko — white fish paste shaped like a bamboo leaf. At the counter they batter it and fry it on a stick.

Order this
Hyotan-age — ひょうたん揚げ
Taste
Sweet batter outside, plain steamed fish inside. Eaten hot
Open
10:00–18:30
Closed
1 January
Phone
022-221-7121
Where
2-3-18 Chuo, Aoba ward, Sendai — in Clis Road arcade, 5 min from Sendai station
Fish
White fish paste. Batter contains wheat
MAP

Rice cake under crushed green soy beans 村上屋餅店

Zunda is young soy beans pounded with a little sugar and salt until they turn into a rough green paste. It is spooned over warm rice cake and eaten at once.

Order this
Zunda mochi — づんだ餅
Taste
Grassy and only lightly sweet. Nothing like bean paste made from red beans
Open
9:00–18:00
Closed
Mondays and Tuesdays — some weeks Wednesday too, so phone ahead
Phone
022-222-6687
Where
2-38 Kitameme-cho, Aoba ward, Sendai
Contains
Rice and soy beans. No dairy, no egg
MAP

Noodles cut short, made without oil 白石温麺 つりがね庵

Uumen are about nine centimetres long and made with no oil at all, so they are easy on the stomach. The story is that a son made them for his sick father. The shop sits in the noodle works.

Order this
Uumen — 温麺 (hot in stock, or cold with dipping sauce)
Taste
Soft, plain, very light. Nothing like ramen or udon
Open
Weekdays 11:00–14:30 (last order 14:15). Weekends and holidays 11:00–15:00 (last order 14:30)
Closed
Thursdays, and the 2nd and 3rd Tuesday
Phone
0224-26-2493
Where
46 Hon-cho, Shiroishi City — inside the Kichimi noodle works
Contains
Wheat. No oil in the noodles. The stock is made with fish
MAP

Oysters from the bay of islands かき松島こうは 松島海岸駅前2号店

The islands of Matsushima break the waves, and oysters have been farmed in the calm water behind them for centuries. This kitchen grills, fries and steams them a minute from the pier.

Order this
Kaki no hitsumabushi — 牡蠣のひつまぶし (oysters over rice in a tub)
Taste
Small and sweet rather than briny. Also served fried and in soup
Closed
Irregular — phone ahead
Open
About 12:00 to 15:00. 11:30 if you have booked
Season
Oysters all year
Phone
022-353-3588
Where
Namiuchihama 10-14, Matsushima town — by Matsushima-Kaigan station
Shellfish
Oysters in every dish. Not a place for a shellfish allergy
MAP

Rice and vegetables from the inland plain あ・ら・伊達な道の駅

The Osaki plain grows rice, and this market sells it alongside the vegetables, mushrooms and mountain greens that come in from the same fields. A bakery works inside.

Order this
Rice from the Osaki plain — 大崎の米
Taste
Bread is baked on site through the day, if you want something to eat now
Open
9:00–18:00, every day (until 17:00 from December to February)
Phone
0229-73-2236
Where
Ikezuki, Iwadeyama, Osaki City
MAP

Ohagi from the grocery in the hot-spring village 主婦の店 さいち

Akiu is the hot-spring valley behind Sendai. The grocery in the village makes its own ohagi, rice wrapped in sweet bean paste, in three kinds.

Order this
Ohagi — おはぎ. Anko, kinako or sesame
Season
A natto one from October to early May
Open
9:00 to 19:00. They can sell out in the afternoon
Closed
Second and fourth Wednesday, and January 1 to 4
Phone
022-398-2101
Where
Yumoto Yakushi 27, Akiu-machi, Taihaku ward, Sendai
MAP

Soba fried crisp, under a thick sauce たかはし亭

Naruko grows its own buckwheat. Here the noodles are fried until crisp, then covered with a thick sauce full of mountain vegetables.

Order this
Naruko yaki-okuzugake — 鳴子焼おくずがけ
Taste
Buckwheat noodles fried crisp, under a thick sauce with mountain vegetables
Open
10:00 to 15:00 (last order)
Closed
Wednesdays — open if it falls on a holiday
Phone
0229-81-1510
Where
Shin-yashiki 121-1, Naruko Onsen, Osaki — in the hot spring village
Contains
Buckwheat
MAP

Mabo yakisoba — mapo sauce over fried noodles 中国菜館 まんみ

Mapo sauce over fried noodles. The noodles are steamed, dried until crisp, softened in hot water and then fried, so they come out crisp outside and chewy inside.

Order this
Mabo chamen — 麻婆炒麺
What it is
Mapo sauce poured over fried noodles
The noodles
Steamed, dried crisp, softened in hot water, then fried
Open
Lunch 11:00-15:30, last order 15:15. Evening 17:00-20:30, last order 20:15.
Closed
Irregular — call ahead
Phone
022-371-9111
Where
Izumi-Chuo 1-22-3, Izumi ward, Sendai — near Izumi-Chuo station
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Miyagi

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by くろふね (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Σ64 (CC BY 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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