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Local food of Ishikawa

Eating in Ishikawa

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Ishikawa is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

a seafood bowl at Omicho Market

Kaisen don

We recommend ordering this one first.

A bowl of whatever the market landed that morning, from Omicho in the middle of Kanazawa.

Raw¥2,000–5,000
jibuni, simmered duck in thick broth

Jibuni

Duck simmered with wheat gluten and vegetables in a thick sauce, with wasabi on top. Kanazawa’s own dish.

No pork¥1,500–3,000

Snow crab

Crab landed here from November. Boiled whole, and expensive for a reason.

Nov–Mar¥5,000–20,000

Gold leaf sweets

Almost all of Japan’s gold leaf is beaten here, and it ends up on ice cream, castella and sake.

Vegetarian¥800–1,500

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

A canteen inside the working fish market 辻屋商店食堂

Kanazawa has a market the tour buses go to, and a market the city actually runs on. This canteen is inside the second one. The people at the next table work in the building.

Order this
Fried horse mackerel set — アジフライ定食
Also
Tonbara set with a soft egg — とんばら定食
Where
Kanazawa central market — Sainen 4-7-1
Open
11:00–15:00 (last order 14:30) and 17:30–22:00 (last order 21:00)
Closed
Sundays, and Saturday evenings
Phone
076-255-6105
Can you go in
Yes. It is a working market, but the canteens are open to anyone
MAP

Conveyor-belt sushi in Omicho market, open all day 廻る近江町市場寿し 本店

Sushi on a belt inside the market where the fish is sold. Open from half past eight in the morning until eight at night, every day.

Order this
Whatever is on the belt, or order the local fish by name
Open
8:30–20:00. Open every day of the year.
Phone
076-261-9330
Where
28-1 Shimo-Omicho, Kanazawa — in Omicho market
Raw fish
Yes
MAP

Kanazawa oden, inside the station 季節料理・おでん 黒百合

Oden is things simmered in light stock. Kanazawa puts crab and wheat gluten in it. This counter is in the shopping floor of Kanazawa station, so it works before a train.

Order this
Oden moriawase — おでん盛り合わせ (an assortment)
Taste
Clear stock, not sweet. Mustard on the side
Open
11:00–21:30, last order 21:00
Phone
076-260-3722
Where
1-1 Kinoshinbo-machi, Kanazawa — Kanazawa station, Hyakubangai "Anto"
Fish
The stock is made with fish. Some pieces are crab or prawn
Wheat
Fu (wheat gluten) is one of the standard pieces
MAP

Ice cream under a sheet of gold 箔一 東山店

Kanazawa beats almost all of Japan's gold leaf, thin enough to tear on a breath. A whole square is laid over soft ice cream, on the old teahouse street.

Order this
Kinpaku soft — 金箔ソフトクリーム
Taste
The gold has none. It is milk ice cream, with something startling on top
Open
Shop 9:00–18:00, cafe 9:00–17:00
Closed
Open all year
Phone
076-253-0891
Where
1-15-4 Higashiyama, Kanazawa — in the Higashi Chaya district
Contains
Dairy, and edible gold leaf
MAP

Tea roasted from the stem, not the leaf 丸八製茶場 本店

Kaga boucha is made by roasting the stems of the tea plant rather than the leaves. It comes out amber, smells toasted, and has very little bitterness or caffeine.

Order this
Kaga boucha — 加賀棒茶
Taste
Roasted, slightly sweet, clean. Nothing like green tea
Open
Shop 10:00–17:00. Tea room 10:00–12:00 and 13:00–17:00
Closed
Wednesdays (Thursday instead if Wednesday is a holiday)
Phone
0761-74-2425
Where
Ta 1-8 Ibarashi-machi, Kaga City
Contains
Tea only. Low in caffeine
MAP

Pressed sugar sweets for the tea ceremony 森八 本店

Rakugan is rice flour and sugar pressed into carved wooden moulds and dried. It is made to be eaten before matcha. There is a room of old moulds upstairs.

Order this
Chosei-den — 長生殿 (pressed sugar in a red and white pair)
Taste
Dissolves at once, very sweet, faintly of rice. Meant for bitter tea
Open
9:00–18:00
Closed
1 and 2 January
Phone
076-262-6251
Where
10-15 Ote-machi, Kanazawa — near Kanazawa castle
Contains
Rice flour and sugar. No dairy, no egg, no wheat
MAP

Steamed chestnut yokan, cut thick with nuts 松葉屋

This is a steamed yokan with whole chestnuts set through it, so every slice comes out full of them. It is sold by the bar and cut at home.

Order this
Tsukiyomi Yamaji — 月よみ山路 (steamed chestnut yokan)
Taste
Dense and only lightly sweet. Cut it thin, with tea
Open
9:00–18:00 (until 16:00 on Wednesdays, Sundays and public holidays)
Closed
New Year only
Phone
0761-22-0120
Where
Daimonji-cho 69, Komatsu City
MAP

Ketchup rice, omelette and fried fish グリルオーツカ

Hanton rice is a Kanazawa dish: ketchup rice under a thin omelette, with fried fish laid on top.

Order this
Hanton rice — ハントンライス
Taste
Ketchup rice under a thin omelette, with fried prawn and marlin on top
Open
Lunch 11:00 to 15:20, last order 14:45
Dinner
17:00 to 20:30, last order 19:50
Closed
Wednesdays
Phone
076-221-2646
Where
Katamachi 2-9-15, Kanazawa — in the Katamachi quarter
Contains
Prawn, fish, egg
MAP

Jibu-ni, at the garden gate 茶屋 見城亭

Jibu-ni is duck simmered with mushrooms and greens, served in a shallow lacquer bowl. This place stands at the gate of Kenrokuen.

Order this
Jibu-ni — 治部煮
Taste
Duck simmered with mushrooms and greens, in a shallow lacquer bowl
Open
The restaurant 11:00 to 15:00, last order 14:30
Also
The shop runs 9:00 to 17:00
Closed
No fixed day — ring ahead
Phone
076-221-2688
Where
Kenroku-cho 1-19, Kanazawa — at the Katsurazaka gate of Kenrokuen
Contains duck
Yes
MAP

Kata-dofu — tofu pressed until it holds its shape 上野とうふ店

Tofu weighted down until the water is pressed out, so it keeps its shape and the soybean flavour concentrates. The soy milk is separated from the lees before boiling.

Buy this
Kata-dofu — 堅豆腐
How it is made
Weighted with stones to press the water out, concentrating the soybean flavour
The method
Soy milk is separated from the lees first, then only the milk is boiled
Open
7:00-19:00
Closed
Irregular days, plus 1 to 4 January
Phone
076-259-2707
Where
Kuwajima 4-96-29, Hakusan
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Ishikawa

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by 経済特区 (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Sagapref02 (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by っ (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo credits and licences
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