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fireworks over a river

Fireworks

Take a mat, arrive early and sit down for it. Getting in is easy — plan how you get out.

What to know firstNot a display. A season.

Japanese fireworks are a summer institution, and they are different from fireworks elsewhere in three ways. They are enormous — some shells are wider than a house. They are watched sitting down, on a river bank, with food. And they go on for an hour or two, not fifteen minutes.

They run from late July through August, several a week somewhere in the country, and the large ones draw hundreds of thousands of people to a river. Many people wear a cotton yukata, and if you want to, hire shops near the venue will dress you in one for a couple of thousand yen.

The practical reality is the crowd. Getting in is easy; getting out afterwards is an hour of shuffling towards a station with fifty thousand other people. Plan the going home before you go.

How to enjoy one instead of enduring it

Arrive two or three hours early with a mat, and buy food at a convenience store on the way — the stalls at the site have long queues.

Choose a spot you can leave easily. A river bank a kilometre downstream has the same sky and a tenth of the people.

Decide your exit first. Pick the second-nearest station, walk to it rather than the closest, and you will board a train instead of joining a queue.

Or leave ten minutes before the end. You will lose the finale and gain an hour.

On the nightPractical

Take

A mat
Sold everywhere in summer. The bank is grass or concrete
Cash
Stalls only take cash
Water
Queues are long. Take some with you
A fan
Paper or battery. August evenings here are still 28°C

Weather

Rain
Small rain does not stop them. Heavy rain or lightning postpones to a stated backup date

Where

Sumida, Tokyo
Late July, on the river by Asakusa. Asakusa
Osaka
Early August, on the Yodo river. Osaka
Nagaoka, Niigata
Early August, over the river. Niigata
Almost anywhere
Small town displays are often the better evening — same sky, no crush

Where to go next

Photo: by KANSEI (CC BY-SA 4.0), via Wikimedia Commons
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