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Local food of Hokkaido

Eating in Hokkaido

Try these dishes while you are here.

First, what is itWhat Hokkaido is known for

Order the first one and work down the list.

sea urchin and salmon roe over rice

Uni and ikura don

We recommend ordering this one first.

Sea urchin and salmon roe over rice, eaten at a morning market. Expensive, and the reason people come north.

Raw¥2,500–6,000
Sapporo soup curry

Soup curry

A Sapporo invention: thin spiced soup with a whole chicken leg and large vegetables in it, and rice on the side.

Chicken¥1,000–1,600
jingisukan lamb on a domed iron pan

Genghis Khan

Lamb grilled on a domed iron plate with onions and cabbage. Eaten with beer, loudly.

No pork¥1,500–3,000

Dairy and corn

Milk, butter, soft ice cream and grilled corn from the farms. Sold at every roadside stop.

Vegetarian¥300–600

Hidden favouritesThe places visitors keep finding

Small shops, no English sign outside, and worth the walk.

Conveyor-belt sushi from Nemuro, in a Sapporo suburb 回転寿司 根室花まる 手稲前田店

The fish comes from Nemuro, at the far east end of Hokkaido. A conveyor belt, so you can point at what you want.

Order this
Whatever is on the belt — and ask for the day’s Nemuro fish
Taste
Cold-water fish. Firmer and sweeter than the same cuts further south
Open
11:00–22:00 (last order 21:45)
Closed
A few days a year, not weekly
Booking
Not taken. You queue
Phone
011-685-8700
Where
Maeda 7-jo, Teine, Sapporo
MAP

Miso ramen in Sapporo, from ten in the morning すみれ 札幌本店

Miso broth with a layer of oil on top that keeps it hot to the last mouthful. In Nakanoshima, south of the city centre.

Order this
Miso ramen — 味噌ラーメン — 1,300 yen
Taste
Thick miso, hot for a long time. Soy and salt broths as well
Open
10:00–20:00. Shut Wednesdays.
Phone
011-824-5655
Where
2-jo 4-7-28 Nakanoshima, Toyohira ward, Sapporo
Contains pork
Yes
MAP

Sapporo mutton grilled at the table 成吉思汗 だるま 本店

Mutton over a dome-shaped iron grill. You cook it yourself at a counter that seats about a dozen. Cash only, and there is usually a line.

Order this
Jingisukan — 成吉思汗 (mutton)
Taste
Strong lamb smell, dipped in soy-and-garlic sauce
Open
17:00–5:00 next morning, last order 4:30
Closed
31 December – 2 January. Otherwise open every day
Phone
011-552-6013
Where
Minami 5 Nishi 4, Chuo ward, Sapporo — Susukino
Meat
Mutton. No pork, no beef
Garlic
In the dipping sauce — say so if you cannot eat it
MAP

Soup curry, thin enough to drink マジックスパイス 札幌本店

Sapporo curry is a spiced broth rather than a thick sauce, with whole vegetables and a leg of chicken standing in it. You order the heat on a scale.

Order this
Soup curry — スープカレー
Taste
Thin, hot, heavy on cumin and cardamom. Rice comes on the side
Open
Mon, Tue, Fri 11:00–15:00 and 17:30–22:00. Sat, Sun and holidays 11:00–22:00
Closed
Wednesdays and Thursdays
Phone
011-864-8800
Where
Hongo-dori 8, Minami 6-2, Shiroishi ward, Sapporo
Heat
Seven levels. The top ones are genuinely painful
MAP

Twenty seafood counters by the station 函館朝市 どんぶり横丁市場

One corner of Hakodate's morning market, a minute from the station. About twenty small kitchens, most of them serving bowls of raw seafood over rice.

Order this
Kaisen-don — 海鮮丼. Squid, sea urchin, salmon roe, crab
Taste
Cold raw fish on warm rice. The squid here is served still moving
Open
Each counter keeps its own hours. The market runs in the morning
Phone
0138-22-6034 (market office)
Where
9-15 Wakamatsu-cho, Hakodate — 1 min walk from Hakodate station
Fish
Raw fish and shellfish. Prices are per bowl, marked at each counter
MAP

Butter cream between two raisin biscuits 六花亭 帯広本店

Tokachi is dairy country, and this shop built a sandwich out of it: white chocolate and butter cream with rum-soaked raisins, pressed between two soft biscuits.

Order this
Marusei butter sand — マルセイバターサンド
Taste
Rich, cold butter cream against a dry biscuit. Rum in the raisins
Open
Shop 9:00–18:00, tea room 10:30–17:00 (last order 16:30)
Closed
Shop open every day. Tea room shuts Wednesdays
Where
Nishi 2 Minami 9-6, Obihiro City
Contains
Dairy, wheat, egg, and a little rum
MAP

Fish cake fried behind glass かま栄 工場直売店

Otaru’s Sakaimachi street runs between stone warehouses. Here the workshop is open to view through glass, and what comes off the line is sold warm at the counter.

Order this
Kamaboko — かまぼこ (fried, sold warm)
Taste
Springy inside, crisp outside. Eat it standing at the counter
Open
9:00–18:00, until 19:00 on summer weekends
Closed
1 January
Visit
The workshop can be watched through the glass, free
Phone
0134-25-5802
Where
Sakaimachi 3-7, Otaru City
Fish
Made from fish. Cooked, not raw
MAP

Pork over rice, and nothing else on it ぶた丼のとん田

Tokachi raises pigs, and Obihiro puts the meat straight onto rice — grilled, glazed, and nothing else in the bowl. The meat wholesaler that supplies it runs this shop.

Order this
Buta-don — ぶた丼. Choose bara (belly) or rosu (loin)
Taste
Tokachi pork, grilled and glazed, laid over rice
Open
11:00–18:00 (last order), or until the pork runs out
Closed
Sunday, New Year, and other days without notice
Paying
Cash only
Phone
0155-24-4358
Where
Higashi 10-jo Minami 17-2, Obihiro — 8 minutes by taxi from Obihiro station
MAP

Furano omu-curry お好み焼き まさ屋

Furano has its own omu-curry — curry under an omelette. Ten shops in the town each serve a version of it.

Order this
Furano omu-curry — 富良野オムカレー
Also
Okonomiyaki — お好み焼き, the shop other trade
Open
11:30 to 15:00, and 17:00 to 22:00
Closed
Thursdays — open if it falls on a holiday
Phone
0167-23-4464
Where
Hinode-cho 11-15, Furano
Contains
Egg
MAP

Asahikawa ramen — eight shops under one roof あさひかわラーメン村

Asahikawa ramen is a soy-sauce soup of pork bone and dried sardine, with a film of oil on top so it stays hot. Eight shops here, so you can compare.

Order this
Asahikawa ramen — 旭川ラーメン
The soup
Pork bone with dried sardine and other sea stock, in soy sauce
Why the oil
A film of oil floats on the surface to keep the soup hot
Choose from
Eight ramen shops, 220 seats between them
Open
11:00-20:00 — can differ by shop and by season
Closed
No closing day
Phone
0166-48-2153
Where
Nagayama 11-jo 4-chome, Asahikawa — inside the Powers shopping centre
MAP

RestaurantsWhere to eat in Hokkaido

How to eat well here today

Ask your hotel
The front desk will book by telephone for you
Eat at lunch
The same kitchens serve set lunches for a fraction of the evening price, with no reservation
Station buildings
Almost every main station has a floor of restaurants with picture menus. Reliable, and open late
Convenience stores
Genuinely good food at 2am, with ingredients on the label
Cash
Ask “Card OK?” before you order. Many small places are cash only

If there are things you do not eat

No pork
Say Buta-niku nashi, or show a card
No alcohol
Osake nashi
Nothing raw
Nama wa dame desu
Vegetarian
Oniku to sakana nashi
Allergy
Arerugii ga arimasu — and show a card. Say it before you order

Where to go next

Photo: by Raita Futo from Tokyo, Japan (CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Douglas P. Perkins (CC BY 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by Yamaguchi Yoshiaki from Japan (CC BY-SA 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo: by mdid (CC BY 2.0), via Wikimedia Commons
Photo credits and licences
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